My verdict: the absolute essential for any website.
GA4 is free, powerful, and represents the industry standard. Its interface requires learning — sometimes frustrating — but the richness of data and Google ecosystem make it a must-have. Don't expect to be productive on day one.
What I like less: the GA4 interface is really different from the old Universal Analytics, and the learning curve is real. Custom event setup can quickly become technical. And default reports don't always answer the questions you're asking.
My advice: install GA4 from day 1, even if you don't use it immediately. Historical data is precious. Invest time to learn the interface and configure GTM correctly from the start. For qualitative insights (understanding the "why"), complement with Hotjar or PostHog.